Milan Fashion Week witnessed a pivotal moment as Sabato De Sarno debuted his inaugural spring 2024 collection for Gucci on September 22. This marked De Sarno’s first full collection for the iconic Italian house since taking on the role of creative director in January 2023, and fashion enthusiasts eagerly awaited the unveiling of his vision.
The show was a departure from the exuberant, maximalist style associated with former creative director Alessandro Michele. De Sarno’s collection began with a series of looks that focused on everyday essentials and introduced a new form of super-minimal suiting. These looks featured reworked suit elements paired with white tees, tank tops, platform loafers, white dresses with sharp darts, and, most notably, blazers and shorts styled with no additional layers. The micro-short suit, also prevalent at Tom Ford, made a prominent appearance in De Sarno’s spring collection.
Throughout the runway show, embossed monogram shift dresses, oversized unbuttoned tailored vests, sparkling crystal bras, and monogram baggy dresses and matching bags commanded attention. However, a distinctive feature of the new Gucci under De Sarno’s creative direction were the blazers and suits worn without shirts underneath, infusing everyday pieces with editorial flair.
De Sarno’s approach may seem like a return to basics at first glance, but his debut collection had something for everyone. The collection featured thick, structured leather jackets with lapels, sheer white tank tops, and beige-toned suits that reimagined quiet elegance. Yet, there were still nods to the exuberance of the Michele era, evident in crystal lapels, patent leather stripes, glittering tunics, and a remarkable chartreuse coat adorned with tinsel fringe.
Accessories remained at the forefront of the Gucci brand, with each model carrying a bag and many donning chunky gold jewelry and sunglasses. De Sarno demonstrated his intention to establish his own house codes within the brand.
The collection’s title, “Ancora,” which means “again” or “still” in Italian, hinted at De Sarno’s desire to recapture the essence of fashion from the ’90s while embracing a forward-thinking vision. He expressed his passion for fashion and his aim to fall in love with it over and over again. De Sarno’s debut collection was a fusion of elements from the ’90s and ’70s, delivering a modern and bold aesthetic.
Sabato De Sarno’s journey from his early days in fashion to his recent role as Gucci’s creative director was reflected in his collection. Born in 1983 near Naples, he gained experience at prestigious fashion houses like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and Valentino before joining Gucci. Each of these experiences contributed to the multifaceted aesthetic he presented in his debut collection.
In an effort to support emerging talent, De Sarno commissioned an art book focused on a new generation of artists to accompany his debut. He used this opportunity to share the spotlight that the iconic brand affords him with other creative minds.
Sabato De Sarno’s debut collection marked a significant moment in Gucci’s history, signaling a new direction for the iconic brand while paying homage to its rich heritage. His unique blend of minimalism and opulence promises an exciting future for Gucci under his creative leadership.