The age-old saying “every rose has its thorn” took on a literal meaning in the creation of Olivier Rousteing’s Spring 2024 collection for Balmain. Just a week before the highly anticipated runway show, the designer revealed on Instagram that 50 looks from the collection had been stolen—a nightmare scenario for any fashion house. However, what could have been a catastrophe showcased Balmain’s unwavering resilience.
Rousteing, known for his creative vision, led a team that managed to overcome this setback with remarkable grace. Despite the last-minute challenge, the stolen pieces did not cast a shadow over the runway presentation.
In continuation of the theme from the previous season, Rousteing sought to celebrate the legacy of Balmain’s founder, Pierre Balmain. The iconic designer had a profound appreciation for roses, which became the defining motif of the Spring 2024 collection. Balmain teased this floral theme on Instagram with references to the famous Miranda Priestley quote, suggesting that these florals were not just groundbreaking but also a testament to impressive craftsmanship.
The collection began with a subdued and somber tone, featuring black-and-white pieces in classic silhouettes. However, it swiftly transitioned into a vibrant display of creativity. Balmain constructed bouquets using unconventional materials such as patent leather, rubber, latex, porcelain, and even recycled plastic bottles, incorporating them into blazers, coats, mini dresses, rompers, and handbags. The most striking ensembles featured 3-D florals and colorful birds, adorning sculptural cage dresses—a true testament to Rousteing’s penchant for extravagance.
For more wearable options, the collection featured dresses and tops adorned with large rosettes, particularly in polka-dot patterns, which were one of the founder’s favorites. Romantic rose prints in red, white, and black adorned shapely dresses, skirts, and tops. The standout pieces were the dresses, which showcased just one or two colors, allowing the rose motif and craftsmanship to take center stage.
Despite the unexpected adversity, Rousteing’s collection conveyed the spirit of the rose: joy, beauty, and love. As the designer noted, “Love is complex; every rose, after all, comes with its thorns.” In a nod to this complexity, literal thorns were incorporated into the collection’s clothing and accessories.
In his show notes, Rousteing addressed the recent robbery, acknowledging the challenge it posed in the days leading up to the presentation. Nevertheless, he expressed gratitude to the Balmain team, friends, colleagues, and even the Paris police, who successfully recovered the stolen van and “some of the boxes.” This collection not only demonstrated Balmain’s ability to rise above adversity but also served as a symbol of the enduring beauty that can emerge even in the face of thorns.