Claude Vialade, 65 years old and in charge of a 1,500-hectare plot of land, decided a few years ago to take action against climate change and create a resilient vineyard. He chose to use Portuguese and Spanish varieties, such as Alvarinho and Verdejo, which are more suitable for high temperatures. This change has allowed him to better control the alcohol level and acidity of his wines.
The process was not easy, as he had to uproot the existing vineyards, carry out soil analysis, enter into a European experimentation protocol, and wait for the new vineyards to mature enough for winemaking, which took ten years. Claude had to leave behind a capitalist logic to embark on this transformation.
The situation is not exclusive to Claude, since in general the harvests are carried out earlier and earlier, even at the end of July. This has led to some solutions, such as blending the grapes to balance the wines.
Antoine Robert, about 40 km from Château Cicéron, chose to use a grape variety called Cariena, which ripens later and helps balance his wines. This strain was widely planted in the south of France in the past, but its overyielding produced characterless wines and was replaced by Syrah. However, ancient and forgotten grape varieties are now being rediscovered in search of adapting to the heat.
Winegrowers who want to change their vines face challenges, especially if they want to stay within appellations of origin, which come with various restrictions. However, the INAO has been easing the rules in response to global warming, allowing the incorporation of strains from other latitudes or experimental varieties to better adapt to changing conditions.